Basic Ski Turns: A Step-by-Step Guide

Are you curious about different turn styles when skiing? If so, you're in the right place! In skiing, you'll hear about classic turn types: wedge, parallel (skidded), carving, powder, straight-lining, and jump turns.

Below, we'll break each down into bits readable on the chairlift. You'll discover when you'll learn the turn, how they look and feel, and where to use (and not use!) them. Let's drop in!

Wedge Turns (Snowplow Turns)

Learning Progression: The wedge turn, often called the snowplow or "pizza" turn, is usually the very first turn taught to new skiers.

What It Looks Like: Your skis form a big "V" shape with tips together and tails apart. As you make a turn, keep that wedge shape, using the wide stance and the inside edges of your skis to plow through the snow and slow yourself down. There's usually a bit of a push outward on the snow, and you won't see much speed – this turn prioritizes control.

What It Feels Like: Doing a wedge turn feels very stable and deliberate. As you turn, you'll feel your skis pushing against the snow. The stance is fairly wide, which gives you a solid, secure feeling. For many beginners, it's comforting: you feel in control and balanced, with speed kept low. It will also quickly tire your quads (since you're pressing those skis outward).

Best Used: Wedge turns are best on easy, gentle terrain – think bunny hills and green runs. They shine when you're going slow and just starting out. While most often used by beginners, some advanced skiers will revert to a partial wedge on very steep slopes or to emergency brake, because the plow action scrubs speed quickly.

The wedge is also handy on packed, icy beginner slopes where you need that extra braking power to feel safe. The wedge has your back whenever you need a super-stable, slow turn or a quick stop.

When to Avoid / Risks: Using wedge turns in the wrong environment can cause trouble. For instance, on steeper blue or black runs, a pure wedge won't cut it – your legs will tire out too fast. The wedge isn't very agile, so on steep terrain, you risk losing control or not being able to turn quickly enough if you rely only on a snowplow. It's also barely effective in deep powder (the skis will sink) or tight spaces (like narrow trails or moguls, where a wide ski stance is hard to fit).

If you try a wedge at high speed, it can feel unstable – your skis might chatter or wobble since they're fighting a lot of snow resistance. Once you're comfortable at higher speeds or on steeper slopes, it's safest to graduate from the wedge to more advanced turns to stay in control.

Parallel Skidding Turns (Basic Parallel Turns)

Learning Progression: You'll start working on parallel skills after successfully linking wedge turns and controlling your speed on green slopes. Most will do basic parallel turns after just a few days on snow.

It's often taught in stages – first matching the skis parallel at the end of a turn (a wedge Christie), then eventually starting the turn with parallel skis. This is the gateway to more advanced skiing.

What It Looks Like: In a parallel skidded turn, both skis remain parallel (side by side) throughout the turn, and you usually see some sideways skid or spray of snow as the skis pivot. These turns leave two arcs with a brushed edge in the snow. Typically, the skier starts a turn by turning both feet simultaneously in the new direction, with the skis roughly hip-width apart and aligned.

What It Feels Like: A skidded parallel turn feels freer and faster than a wedge. You're no longer forcing a big plow; instead, you're gliding more. You'll feel your weight shift from one ski to another (usually onto the outside ski as you turn). There's a sensation of sliding or drifting through the turn – like a controlled skid on each turn. It takes less effort from your legs than the wedge because there's less brute force and more subtle edging and steering.

It's also more dynamic: you might feel a bit of acceleration when you point downhill, then a gentle slowing as you steer across the slope, and that repeat of rhythm is really fun. Overall, parallel turns give a nice sense of flow as you link them.

Best Used: Parallel skidded turns are the bread-and-butter of most recreational skiing. This is the turn you'll use 90% of the time cruising around the resort once you move past the beginner stage. They work great on groomed snow and even in somewhat steep terrain because you can control your speed by adjusting the amount you skid.

These turns are also your go-to for places like moguls, narrow trails, or ungroomed snow, where pure carving isn't practical – some skidding gives you control and quick pivoting. It's the everyday turn for most skiers – versatile and adaptable to many conditions.

When to Avoid / Risks: There aren't many places you can't do a parallel turn, but there are a couple of cautions. On traverses or cat tracks (I.e., flat terrain), you might stall out because skidding scrubs a lot of speed – so keep your skis pointing straight (or use a tiny wedge to keep momentum).

On the flip side, on very steep or icy slopes, a skidded turn can be risky if you don't set your edges enough – you might start to slide uncontrollably if your skis don't grip. In such cases, you must edge more (or even use a deliberate partial wedge or a different technique) to avoid a fall.

Carving Turns

Learning Progression: Carving is the elegant, modern style of turning. It has become a core part of skiing, and many ski schools teach carving techniques alongside parallel skidded turns once a student is comfortable on intermediate runs.

You typically start exploring carving after you've got basic parallel turns down. As an intermediate, you might be taught to gradually reduce skidding and "rail" the skis more. There isn't a separate "Carving 101" lesson in beginner progression; instructors will have you do drills to feel the ski edges gripping once you're ready.

What It Looks Like: A carving turn is simply beautiful! When someone is carving, their skis are tilted on edge, and they cut clean curved lines in the snow, almost like a pair of knife blades tracing an arc. Unlike a skidded turn, there's no sideways sliding – the skis leave thin, continuous "railroad track" grooves in the snow. You'll see the skier's body leaned into the turn (angulated) with knees and hips bent to put the ski on edge. Often, the spray is minimal because the ski isn't pushing snow aside. It's cutting through it.

If you're watching someone carve, the shape of the turn is more rounded and consistent, and the skier accelerates out of the turn smoothly. A well-carved turn on freshly groomed snow makes a slight whoosh and leaves those iconic twin tracks behind. It's the kind of turn you see in ski racing or those glossy ski magazine photos: dynamic, fast, and precise.

What It Feels Like: Carving feels amazing. When you carve, you shift your skis onto their edges, and you can feel the edges bite into the snow.  

You'll likely feel a build-up of G-forces as you arc through the turn, especially on the outside ski, and then a release as you transition to the next turn. It's super smooth if done right. There's no chatter or bounce, just a steady grip.

Because you're not skidding, you also tend to maintain (or gain) speed. Carving is also efficient, so it feels faster and requires less effort. To me, it feels like the ski is almost turning itself – once I set the angle, the ski's sidecut brings you around.

Best Used: Carving is best used on groomed runs where you can let the skis run. If you can find freshly groomed trails first thing in the morning, that's prime carving territory.

Carving shines when you want to go faster and make cleaner turns without losing momentum. It's the go-to technique for racers. Modern skis are designed for this, so even recreational skiers will carve on easier slopes once they learn how. Just know that you'll need some speed to make the carving turn, especially on mellower slopes.

One more scenario: carving in soft corn snow or spring snow – trenching through that buttery snow feels great. Use carving whenever you have the space and conditions to lean your skis over and trust their edges. The payoff is smooth, fast turns that leave those envy-inducing tracks behind you.

When to Avoid / Risks: Carving is wonderful, but sometimes you shouldn't (or can't) carve. Carving big arcs might be unsafe in crowded areas or narrow runs because you'll take up a lot of space and carry more speed – you don't want to collide with others.

Carving can be challenging on steep slopes because of the quick acceleration. Speed control is critical in the steeps, so you'll mix in some skids and jump turns (more on that later).

Carving in moguls or uneven terrain is generally not feasible – you'll need pivoting there, so trying to force a carve through a mogul field could send you airborne.

Carving requires a good edge grip and sharp edges on ice or hard-pack snow. If your edges slip, you could suddenly lose control. A partially skidded turn might be safer on ice to avoid "blowing out" and risking a crash.

Just remember that carving demands commitment and room. If you try to carve in the wrong place (say, a tight tree run or a chute), you won't be able to turn sharply enough. If you don't fully commit by trusting your edges and shifting your weight, you'll end up skidding the turn or risking a fall.

Jump Turns

Origin & Learning Progression: Jump turns are a bit of an outlier – they're not a "standard" turn. As skiers started tackling super steep slopes or narrow chutes, they had to find a way to pivot quickly with almost no space – hence the jump turn.

You typically won't learn jump turns until you're an advanced skier – if at all. Many recreational skiers never formally learn them unless they venture into steep terrain. In the normal progression, they come after you've mastered parallel turns and usually after you've dabbled in off-piste skiing.

What It Looks Like: A jump turn, true to its name, involves a small hop to initiate the turn with a pole planter on the side you're turning towards. Picture a skier on a very steep slope. They crouch a little, then spring up and quickly twist their skis 90 to 180 degrees while momentarily airborne and land facing the opposite direction, completing a quick turn.

Visually, it's dramatic: both skis leave the snow simultaneously, pivot, and then reconnect with the snow in a new direction. Often, the skier's upper body faces mostly downhill while the legs quickly twist in the air.

Skiers can do a lighter version in less steep scenarios where the skis barely hop (sometimes called a pedal hop turn). But classic jump turns on steeps are pretty clear – it's an up-and-down motion with skis flipping direction mid-air. If you see someone making almost in-place turns on a slope that others are zig-zagging across, they're likely doing jump turns.

What It Feels Like: Performing a jump turn is more athletic and intense than the other turns. It feels like a quick burst of energy followed by a landing and reset.

When you do one, you crouch and spring upward, feeling that compression and explosive effort in your legs (like doing a squat jump). For a split second, you're weightless as you rotate your skis. Then you feel the impact of landing—you have to absorb it with your knees so it's controlled, like landing a small jump.

A well-executed jump turn doesn't feel like a huge jump; it's a quick hop. If you keep your core stable, the skis come around fast. Once you land, you will be facing a new direction. Just be warned that doing several in a row can be tiring. You'll feel the burn in your thighs.

Emotionally, it's stressful but thrilling. Once you're comfortable, it can even be fun, almost like hopping down stairs. But there's no denying that jump turns feel like work compared to carving.

Best Used: Jump turns are best used in extremely tight or steep terrain where regular turning isn't feasible. For example, imagine you're at the top of a very steep, narrow chute (only a few yards wide) – a parallel turn might make you pick up too much speed or put you too close to rocks. Thus, a jump turn in place is the safe bet. A dense field of trees also applies here.

Think of jump turns as the go-to for "no-fall zone" runs. They allow you to descend while keeping your speed almost zero – it's a safety turn for sketchy spots.

When to Avoid / Risks: For most of you, jump turns will be rarely used. It's a high-impact move, so doing it repeatedly on moderate slopes could tire you out or even risk injury if you land wrong.

On hard icy surfaces, jump turns are risky because when you land, your edges must catch you; if they slip, you could fall hard. It's usually better to sideslip or skidded-turn on ice than hop (unless absolutely needed).

Don't use jump turns on easy open terrain; stick to regular turns there. Use them on steeps, but make sure you've practiced somewhere lower-consequence first. And if you ever feel a jump turn is sketchy, you can often sideslip as an alternative to inch down (less elegant, but safe).

Powder Turns (Modified Parallel Turn in Powder)

Learning progression: Powder technique usually comes a bit later – often when you're a low-intermediate who's comfortable on blue slopes. The first time it's "taught" might be your first powder day, with a friend or instructor giving tips. After you can link parallel turns on packed snow, you're ready to start dabbling in powder on those magical soft snow days.

What the turn looks like visually: (Image of A skier making a rounded powder turn, skis close together to stay afloat in soft snow) Powder turns look smooth and graceful. Instead of the sharp, edge-carved arcs you see on groomers, a skier doing powder turns makes gentle S-shaped curves, often with skis close together.

Both skis stay parallel and relatively evenly weighted. Using a narrower stance and distributing weight on both feet helps "float" in the snow. The turns send up snow sprays, including the coveted powder "face shot" if it's deep enough!

I will steer with my legs and pivot the skis together in powder rather than tipping on edge. My upper body faces down the hill, and there's a subtle up-and-down motion as I unweight slightly to initiate each turn. I look like I'm gliding or surfing through the snow, with smooth, rounded movements rather than hard, angular turns.

What it feels like to execute: In a word, floaty. There's an incredible softness as your skis push through fluffy snow. Many skiers live for that feeling of "weightlessness, softness, and smoothness" while slicing through fresh snow.

A good powder turn has a rhythm: you feel a gentle resistance as you turn, then a light sensation as you unweight and change direction. It's almost like bouncing slowly on a trampoline or riding a slow-motion wave.

It might initially feel odd for a newcomer to powder because the snow pushes back more, and turns take longer in deep snow. But once you get the hang of it, it's incredibly smooth and forgiving.

Where it's best used (terrain/conditions): Powder conditions! Wherever you find soft, ungroomed snow. This could be a few inches of fresh snowfall on the side of a groomed run or an entire bowl of thigh-deep fluff. The technique shines in deep, fluffy snow where you need to keep your skis from diving.

Even if the powder isn't super deep, making more gradual, leg-steering turns helps you ride the soft layer. In truly bottomless powder (no firm base underneath), maintaining speed and using these gentle turns is crucial to staying afloat. So, the best terrain for powder turns is open, soft snow slopes with room to make arcing paths—think open powder fields or any groomer that just got blanketed in snow (before it gets tracked out!).

Risks of using it in the wrong conditions: If you try making powder turns on hardpack or icy runs, you could get into trouble. For example, in powder, you keep weight distributed and don't rely on edge grip much – do that on an icy slope, and you'll slide out. Evenly weighted skis with little edging have almost no bite on hard snow.

Conversely, suppose you don't switch your technique when you hit powder; say you attempt to carve it like a groomer, with most weight on one ski and a high edge angle. In that case, the downhill ski will cut down deep under the snow. The result? Usually, an abrupt crossover of the skis and an end-over-end tumble.

It is also worth mentioning that this takes more energy/effort. Your quads will tire quickly if you're fighting the heavier snow or if you revert to a back-seat stance.

Straightlining (Skiing Without Turning)

Straightlining is the purest form of going downhill on skis (point 'em down and go!). The practice even has a classic name: "schuss," which translates from German to mean "shot" – referencing a straight downhill run taken at high speed.

Learning Progression: A straight run is one of the first things brand-new skiers do in a very controlled way. In your first lesson on the bunny hill, an instructor might have you point your skis straight down a gentle slope and glide a short distance to get the feel of moving with gravity. That initial schuss is usually brief and slow, but beginners need to know what skiing feels like.

After that, instructors quickly teach you to turn and control speed. So, while straight running on tiny hills is taught at Level 1, true straightlining down longer or steeper slopes isn't recommended until you're much more advanced.

Intermediates might use brief straight lines to coast through flat spots or to get a feel for stability. Experts typically teach themselves the full send "no turns" straight line used on steep slopes.

What it looks like: Imagine a skier crouched down like a racer, skis pointed directly downhill, not turning at all.

It often means the skier is in a tuck position (knees and hips bent, torso low) to minimize air resistance. The skis stay parallel and usually close together. There's no side-to-side motion – just two clean, straight tracks in the snow.

It might look deceptively simple: you'd think they're "just going straight and getting low." But, keen observers will note the skier's stance is deliberate – knees deeply bent to absorb any terrain bumps, and weight balanced evenly on both skis, centered over the middle for control. Arms are often forward or tucked in. Sometimes, skiers will have their skis slightly apart (wider than usual) when straightlining to add stability. Keeping a bit of distance between skis can help prevent any little wobble from turning into a big crash.

What it feels like: It's a mix of thrill and focus. First, it's fast – even on a moderate slope, skipping turns means you pick up speed quickly. You'll feel a big rush of air and a surge of acceleration as gravity does its thing. Pressure also builds under your feet as you go faster and the skis vibrate on the snow. Your leg muscles tense up to stay stable, and you might engage your quads and core to keep balance.

Mentally, it requires concentration: you're watching ahead for any dip or bump and staying ready to react. If you don't straightline often, it can also be exciting and a little scary at the same time. But suppose your line is clear, and you're in control. In that case, straightlining can feel like a pure, adrenaline-charged joy – a brief moment of freedom where you are going full send.

Where it's best used: Like powder and jump turns, straightlining is situational. The best times to straightline are when you need to maintain or gain speed on a slope section, and it's safe. For example, you might straightline the end of a run or a low-angle section to carry momentum into the next rise or across a flat traverse.

It's also used in certain terrain challenges. Imagine a very narrow chute or couloir with no room to turn—expert skiers will sometimes straight line out of the choke to escape it. Another case is if you drop into a steep apron beneath a cliff and you want to outrun any slough or avalanche debris, you might have to point it and go.

Generally, wide and clear run-outs are the ideal place – a steep pitch that flattens at the bottom, so you know you'll naturally slow down once you hit the flats.

On the flip side, you wouldn't straightline a crowded beginner slope (too dangerous) or a mogul field (you'd get bucked). It's best on smooth terrain. So the rule of thumb: save straightlining for empty, groomed stretches or open steep slopes where you need that speed and have room to safely come to a stop afterward.

IMPORTANT DISCLAIMER

Straightlining carries some serious risks if misused. It's the fastest way down but also the least forgiving. The obvious risk is a lack of speed control. If you point your skis straight on a steep hill, you can very quickly reach a speed where suddenly trying to turn or stop is nearly impossible (you'll skid out or crash if you panic-turn at 50 mph).

There's a "point of no return," where you're going so fast that you simply have to ride it out until the slope flattens. Hitting that unknowingly is terrifying for a newer skier. So, doing a straightline on too steep a slope or without the skill to handle it can lead to runaway speed.

Another risk is wobbling and catching an edge. With skis flat and no turning, if one ski even slightly catches an edge or drifts, it can start a scary oscillation (the ski wobbling side to side). It often results in a violent crash if you can't correct it (which is hard at high speed). One ski suddenly hooks and sends you tumbling.

Hitting even a tiny bump or chunk of ice while straightlining can launch you since you're not actively damping speed with turns. And, of course, the faster you go, the harder the fall.

Don't forget about others: straightlining through areas with other skiers or obstacles is incredibly dangerous. You have very little maneuverability to avoid a collision; the impact would be huge at those speeds. Ski patrol may even pull your pass for straightlining in a crowded area.

Lastly, straightlining in tight or technical terrain (wrong place) could send you off a cliff or into trees if you can't make a needed turn.

Straightlining is a tool that should be used sparingly and only when you're sure about the conditions and your ability. Otherwise, you risk a high-speed crash and the possibility of injury to yourself or others.

Summary table

Whew! That was a lot of info, but hopefully, it gives you a clear overview of these different turns. Each has its place in your skiing toolbox. To quickly recap and compare, here's a table:

Enjoy your skiing, and remember: each turn is a tool for different situations. With practice, you'll instinctively know which turn to use when – and you'll be much more confident all over the mountain. Have fun out there, and happy turns!